Climbing hydrangea

Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris. Family Hydrangeaceae. Climber.

Also called Japanese climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea petiolaris.

A large, deciduous woody climber that attaches itself to rough surfaces with aerial rootlets. Gardeners grow it for its white lacecap flowers, leafy coverage of shaded walls and peeling winter bark; it establishes slowly but becomes heavy and vigorous with age.

Hardiness

USDA zones 4a to 8b

UK hardiness: H5 (hardy, -15 to -10°C)

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
  7. 7
  8. 8
  9. 9
  10. 10
  11. 11
  12. 12
  13. 13

Grows outdoors in the shaded zones. Select a zone to see what else grows there.

At a glance

Sun
Partial shade is ideal; tolerates full shade but flowers less. Full sun is suitable in cool climates if the soil stays moist; avoid hot afternoon sun in warmer regions.
Water
Keep the root zone consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during establishment and beneath rain-sheltered walls. Water established plants deeply during prolonged dry spells.
Soil
Humus-rich, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil. Tolerates acidic to mildly alkaline conditions; struggles in dry, shallow soil or stagnant wet ground.
Height
30-50 ft (9-15 m)
Spread
10-20 ft (3-6 m)
Flowers
Late spring to early summer; broad white lacecap heads with small fertile flowers surrounded by larger, showy sterile florets.
Foliage
Opposite, heart-shaped to broadly oval, toothed green leaves, often turning yellow in autumn. Older stems develop peeling cinnamon-brown bark.
Growth
Slow for the first few years, then moderate to vigorous once established.
Care needed
Medium

Care

  • Plant away from the driest strip immediately beside a wall, and angle the shoots towards their support.
  • Tie young stems loosely to a sturdy framework until their aerial rootlets take hold.
  • Water deeply during dry weather, particularly through the first two or three growing seasons.
  • Apply 2-3 in (5-8 cm) of leaf mould or compost each spring, keeping it clear of the main stems.
  • Feed lightly in spring only if growth is weak; avoid heavy nitrogen feeding.
  • Use sound masonry or a substantial support, and keep stems away from gutters, roof tiles and painted timber.

Pruning. Prune just after flowering, shortening outward-growing shoots and removing dead or unwanted stems; flowers form on older wood. If major reduction is necessary, spread it over several years and expect fewer flowers.

Through the year

Early spring
Plant while the soil is workable, check young ties and remove clearly dead or damaged stems.
Spring
Mulch the root area with compost or leaf mould and feed lightly only if needed.
Late spring
Guide new shoots towards their support and check moisture beneath walls and eaves.
Summer
After flowering, shorten projecting shoots and clear growth from windows and gutters.
Summer
Water deeply during dry spells and take semi-ripe cuttings if you want more plants.
Autumn
Layer a low, flexible shoot into the soil and inspect the support before winter storms.

In the garden

  • Cover a tall, shaded masonry wall with foliage and white early-summer flowers.
  • Train over a substantial pergola where its hanging flower heads can be seen from below.
  • Use against a woodland-edge wall with ferns and hostas beneath it.
  • Grow along a strong boundary wall to soften hard surfaces, leaving room for its mature width.

Garden styles it suits: Woodland, English country, Traditional, Secret garden, White garden and Romantic rose garden.

Plant it with: Hostas, Japanese painted ferns, Soft shield ferns, Hellebores, Siberian bugloss and Solomon's seal.

Wildlife: The small fertile flowers provide pollen and nectar for bees and other insects. Dense mature growth offers shelter and possible nesting sites for birds; check for active nests before pruning.

Problems to watch for

  • Little or no flowering: young plants may take several years to bloom. Avoid heavy shade, excessive nitrogen and pruning before flowering.
  • Wilting or scorched leaf edges: check for dry soil beneath the surface, water deeply and mulch; provide protection from hot afternoon sun.
  • Hydrangea scale: check leaf undersides and stems for white egg masses; remove small infestations by hand and prune out heavily affected shoots.
  • Leaf spots or powdery mildew: improve airflow, water at soil level and clear fallen diseased leaves; minor late-season spotting rarely needs treatment.

Safety

Toxic if eaten by cats, dogs, horses or people. Leaves and flower buds contain cyanogenic compounds, and other parts should also be treated as unsafe to eat. Ingestion usually causes vomiting, diarrhoea or abdominal discomfort; serious poisoning is uncommon but larger amounts can be dangerous. Contact a veterinarian or poison service if ingestion is suspected.

Easily confused with

  • Japanese hydrangea vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides)

    Each showy sterile flower has one large, usually heart-shaped white bract; climbing hydrangea has several petal-like sepals around each sterile flower.

  • Seemann's hydrangea (Hydrangea seemannii)

    An evergreen climber with leathery leaves that remain through winter in suitable climates; climbing hydrangea loses its thinner leaves in autumn.

The name

Hydrangea comes from Greek words meaning water vessel, referring to the seed capsules, while petiolaris refers to the conspicuous leaf stalks.

Propagation. Layer a low shoot in spring or autumn, leaving it attached until well rooted, or take semi-ripe cuttings in summer. Rooting and establishment can be slow.

Checked against open data

Accepted botanical name
Hydrangea petiolaris Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is an older name for Hydrangea petiolaris.
Native range
Japan, Korea, Kuril Is. and Sakhalin.
Measured
Average height 1780 cm.

Sources: GBIF (CC BY 4.0) and Trefle (CC BY 4.0). The care and design notes are LandscapeGPT's own.

See it in your own yard.

Upload a photo of your yard and see it redesigned with plants that suit your climate, each checked against your zone.