Olive

Sun

Full sun; choose a warm position sheltered from cold winds.

Water

Water regularly while establishing, then deeply during prolonged dry spells. Established trees tolerate drought, but fruit production benefits from consistent moisture; container plants need more frequent watering.

Soil

Well-drained soil, including sandy, stony or chalky ground. Tolerates a broad pH range but dislikes waterlogged soil, especially in winter.

Height

20-30 ft (6-9 m), occasionally taller with age

Spread

15-25 ft (4.5-7.5 m)

Flowers

Small, creamy-white, lightly fragrant flowers in late spring to early summer.

Foliage

Evergreen. Narrow, leathery, grey-green leaves with silvery undersides, held in opposite pairs.

Growth

Slow to moderate

Care needed

Medium

• Plant in spring in colder regions, keeping the root flare at soil level and avoiding frost pockets.
• Water new trees deeply whenever the root zone begins to dry; do not leave pots standing in water.
• Feed container trees with a balanced fertiliser in spring; feed established garden trees only if growth is weak or a soil test shows a need.
• Apply a light organic mulch over the root zone, keeping it clear of the trunk.
• In cold climates, move pots into a bright, cool, frost-free space for winter; outdoor survival is limited to the mildest parts of Canada.
• For fruit, choose a locally proven cultivar and check whether it needs a compatible second olive for better cropping.

Pruning. Prune in late spring to early summer, after the risk of hard frost, removing dead wood, basal suckers and crossing branches. Thin lightly to admit light rather than shearing repeatedly; heavy pruning reduces the next crop because flowers form on the previous year's growth.

Early spring

Check winter damage and drainage; begin feeding container trees as growth resumes.

Spring

Plant new trees once hard frosts have passed, and gradually acclimatise overwintered pots to outdoor sun.

Late spring

Prune lightly after frost risk has passed, leaving healthy young shoots for future flowering.

Summer

Check container moisture frequently and inspect leaves and stems for scale insects.

Autumn

Harvest full-sized green fruit for green olives, or allow it to darken for ripe olives; use a tested curing method.

Late autumn

Move vulnerable pots under bright, frost-free cover before severe cold; reduce watering without letting the root ball dry completely.

• Use a single tree as a focal point in a sunny gravel courtyard, where its silver foliage contrasts with stone.
• Pair with lavender, rosemary and rockrose in a dry Mediterranean border with free-draining soil.
• Grow in a large, frost-resistant container beside a terrace, allowing room to move it under cover where winters are cold.
• Plant in a small orchard or edible landscape in warm regions, away from paving where fallen fruit can stain.

Garden styles it suits: Mediterranean, Modern Mediterranean, Modern courtyard, Dry gravel garden, Italian / Tuscan and Edible landscape.

Plant it with: Lavender, Rosemary, Rockrose, Santolina, Thyme and Germander.

Wildlife: Flowers are mainly wind-pollinated, though insects may collect pollen. Birds eat ripe fruit and can spread the seeds; the evergreen canopy also provides shelter.

• Root rot in wet soil: improve drainage before planting, avoid frequent watering and never leave containers in standing water.
• Scale insects and associated sooty mould: inspect stems and leaf undersides, remove small infestations by hand and use a locally approved horticultural oil according to its label.
• Olive leaf spot, also called peacock spot: dark circular leaf marks and leaf fall are encouraged by damp conditions; clear fallen leaves, open the canopy and avoid overhead watering.
• Poor cropping: cold-damaged flowers, cool summers, incompatible pollination or heavy pruning can prevent fruiting; choose a locally suitable cultivar, check pollination needs and prune lightly.

Olive is not known to be toxic to cats, dogs, horses or people. Raw fruit is very bitter and should be properly cured before people eat it. Pits can cause choking or intestinal blockage if swallowed, especially by pets; salty prepared olives are unsuitable as a regular animal treat.

Where it spreads. Bird-spread seedlings form invasive stands in parts of South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and Western Australia, and olive is recognised as invasive in parts of California. Some Australian infestations involve African olive, a subspecies of Olea europaea. Check local restrictions before planting fruiting trees near bushland or other natural areas.

• Russian olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia)

  Usually deciduous, often thorny, with alternate rather than opposite leaves and small yellow, strongly fragrant flowers.

• Oleaster (Elaeagnus × submacrophylla)

  Has broader, alternate leaves with silvery or brown scales and fragrant flowers in autumn, rather than olive's narrow, opposite leaves and spring flowers.

• Mock privet (Phillyrea latifolia)

  Has broader, usually toothed, green leaves without the olive's strongly silvery undersides; its small black fruits are much smaller than cultivated olives.

Olea is the Latin name for the olive tree, and europaea means European.

Propagation. Root semi-ripe cuttings with gentle bottom heat in summer; success varies by cultivar. Named varieties are also propagated by grafting. Seedlings are variable, slow to reach fruiting age and do not reliably match the parent.

Accepted botanical name

Olea europaea

In the US and Canada

Introduced in Hawaii and the lower 48 states.

Native range

Afghanistan, Albania, Algeria, Angola, Baleares, Botswana, Burundi, Canary Is., Cape Provinces, China South-Central, Cyprus and Djibouti.

Measured

Soil pH 6.5 to 7. Average height 450 cm.

Sources: GBIF (CC BY 4.0), USDA PLANTS and Trefle (CC BY 4.0). The care and design notes are LandscapeGPT's own.