Shademaster honeylocust
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster'. Family Fabaceae. Tree.
Also called Shademaster thornless honey locust, Gleditsia triacanthos f. inermis 'Shademaster'.
A large deciduous shade tree with a broad crown and fine-textured leaves that cast light, filtered shade. Gardeners grow this usually thornless, largely podless cultivar for lawns, seating areas and yellow autumn colour; it needs room to develop well away from buildings.



At a glance
- Sun
- Full sun; tolerates light shade but develops a better crown in an open position.
- Water
- Water regularly while establishing. Once established, tolerates drought, though prolonged dry weather can cause early leaf drop.
- Soil
- Adaptable to clay, loam and sandy soils, including alkaline soils, provided drainage is adequate. Avoid persistently waterlogged ground.
- Height
- 40-60 ft (12-18 m)
- Spread
- 35-50 ft (11-15 m)
- Flowers
- Small, inconspicuous greenish-yellow flowers in late spring to early summer.
- Foliage
- Fern-like leaves made up of many small green leaflets; turns golden yellow in autumn and drops relatively early.
- Growth
- Fast when young, slowing with maturity.
- Care needed
- Medium
The year at a glance
- Drought tolerant
- Cold hardy
- Wildlife
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Flowers | ||||||||||||
| Plant |
Northern hemisphere months. In Australia, shift them by six.
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Toughness
- Very tough
Will it suit your garden?
Pick your zone, country, light and whether you have pets.
Full sun is 6 or more hours of direct sun a day, part shade 3 to 6 hours, shade under 3.
How it grows
Planting day
7 ft (2 m)
After 1 year
9 ft (2.7 m)
After 2 years
11 ft (3.3 m)
After 3 years
13 ft (4 m)
After 5 years
17 ft (5.3 m)
About 20 years to full size.
From a typical nursery size, at an average rate for this kind of plant. A rule of thumb, not a forecast.
Good to know
- Cats and dogs
- Safe
- Native to
- the US and Canada
- Invasive in
- Australia
- Growth rate
- Moderate
Care
Jobs through the year
- WaterApr–May, Sep–Oct, every 21 days
- Water established trees only during prolonged drought; young trees need regular deep watering for two to three years.
- WaterJun–Aug, every 14 days
- Deep-water established trees during prolonged dry spells to limit premature leaf drop.
- MulchMar–Apr
- Maintain 5–8 cm of organic mulch over roots, clear of the trunk.
- PruneFeb
- In dry weather, remove damaged or crossing branches and train a single leader; use an arborist for large limbs.
- PruneMay, Sep
- Remove shoots below the graft promptly because rootstock growth may carry thorns.
- Plant with the root flare at soil level, allowing enough space for the mature crown and spreading roots.
- Water deeply during dry spells for the first two or three growing seasons, moistening the root zone rather than watering a little each day.
- Spread 2-3 in (5-8 cm) of organic mulch over the root area, keeping it clear of the trunk.
- Do not feed routinely; use a soil test before applying fertiliser, especially beside a fertilised lawn.
- Stake only if the root ball moves in wind, use flexible ties, and remove supports after establishment.
- Remove shoots from below the graft promptly, as rootstock growth may carry thorns.
Pruning. Prune in late winter during dry weather, removing dead, damaged or crossing branches and developing one main leader while the tree is young. Avoid topping and large cuts; use a qualified arborist for mature-tree work.
Through the year
- Late winter
- Check branch structure and make light formative cuts before growth begins.
- Spring
- Plant where soil is workable, water thoroughly and mulch without covering the root flare.
- Late spring
- Inspect new leaves for distorted growth, pod-like swellings or honeydew from feeding insects.
- Summer
- Deep-water young trees during dry spells and check that ties are not rubbing or tightening.
- Early autumn
- Check for dead twigs, bark damage and shoots emerging below the graft.
- Late autumn
- Plant in mild regions while soil remains workable; gather any pods and seedlings if they occur.
In the garden
- Use as a lawn specimen where its broad canopy can develop without repeated size reduction.
- Place beside a patio to provide filtered summer shade rather than a dense, dark canopy.
- Underplant with shade-tolerant perennials and spring bulbs, allowing for increasing root competition as the tree matures.
- Repeat along a spacious drive or boundary for a loose avenue with yellow autumn colour.
Garden styles it suits: Modern, Mid-century modern, Traditional, Grand estate, Family-friendly and Autumn colour.
Plant it with: Epimedium, Hardy geranium, Solomon's seal, Christmas fern, Daffodils and Snowdrops.
Wildlife: The canopy offers perching and nesting cover, and the foliage supports some insects. Flowers may attract pollinating insects, but this largely podless cultivar supplies little seed food compared with fertile honeylocust trees.
Problems to watch for
- Honeylocust plant bugs can distort and discolour new foliage. Keep young trees adequately watered; established trees usually tolerate the damage, so avoid routine insecticide spraying.
- Honeylocust pod gall midge causes swollen, pod-like leaflets, sometimes with twig dieback. Remove affected tips on small trees and seek local advice if damage is repeatedly severe.
- Cankers and branch dieback are more likely on stressed or injured trees. Protect bark from mowers, water during prolonged drought and have dead branches removed in dry weather.
- Poor branch unions can split as the crown enlarges. Arrange formative pruning while young and have weak forks assessed by an arborist rather than topping the tree.
Safety
Honeylocust is not known to be toxic to people, cats, dogs or horses. This is different from black locust, which is poisonous. Pods and seeds are not a reason to encourage pets or children to eat garden material; hard seeds can be a choking hazard, and any thorny rootstock shoots can cause puncture wounds.
Where it spreads. The species spreads aggressively and is regulated in parts of eastern Australia, notably Queensland and New South Wales, and is invasive in South Africa. 'Shademaster' is generally largely podless, but occasional pods and thorny rootstock growth are possible; do not assume the cultivar is exempt from local restrictions.
Easily confused with
Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)
Has larger, rounded leaflets, hanging clusters of fragrant white flowers and often paired spines at the leaf bases. Its bark, seeds and other parts are poisonous, unlike honeylocust.
Japanese pagoda tree (Styphnolobium japonicum)
Has larger, pointed leaflets and conspicuous creamy-white flower clusters in late summer, followed by bead-like pods.
Wild honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos)
Wild trees often have large branched thorns on trunks and branches and long, dark, twisted seed pods. 'Shademaster' normally lacks thorns and produces few or no pods.
The name
Gleditsia honours botanist Johann Gottlieb Gleditsch, triacanthos means three-spined, and honeylocust refers to the sweet pulp inside the species' pods.
Propagation. Propagated commercially by budding or grafting onto honeylocust rootstock. Seedlings do not reliably retain 'Shademaster' characteristics; buy a correctly labelled, grafted tree.
Checked against open data
- Accepted botanical name
- Gleditsia triacanthos
- In the US and Canada
- Native in Canada and the lower 48 states.
- Native range
- Alabama, Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky and Louisiana.
- Measured
- Soil pH 4.8 to 8. Average height 1675 cm.
Sources: GBIF (CC BY 4.0), USDA PLANTS and Trefle (CC BY 4.0). The care and design notes are LandscapeGPT's own.
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